Wainlux is simple to set up, easy-to-use, and extremely stable. It’s the perfect portable art studio you can bring anywhere! Engrave Your Design On Almost Any Object Start with a Wainlux K6 and bring it with you where you go. It’s time to leave the large expensive engraver behind. So the solution is get rid of the plastic parts of your bed architecture, or simply wait long enough for the temperature to stabilize.We found this intriguing project on kickstarter and would love to test and review one and are tempted to back it, if the budget permits. But I can tell you from experience that this change in height vs temperature is very predictable. So if you are having large changes of Z height with bed heating, there are two things you need to consider: Are you waiting long enough for the bed to soak? And if you are, then I would say the heat is slowly getting to something else farther away (like plastic pieces not directly connected to the bed frame, but connected to the Z rods and heat is transferring slowly over aluminum bed frame. So now I need to get a thick piece of aluminum for the heater, or a thicker piece of glass that will not bend to the shape of the PCB (cheap PCB heaters are warped if the copper on the back side is not etched). I have changed the Z bed to use a ceramic sheet instead, which stabilizes the Z frame, but I was using that as previously as insulation with the PCB heater and to stabilize bed warp. On my self build, I have some Z issues related to X-Y carriage torsion common with H-BOT setups, so I cannot say the same performance just yet. I do have moire which is predictable, and I also have random shifting that follows a print job that I attribute to the nozzle hitting curling on overhangs and shifting the bed on those screws, but every calibration column and large prints without overhangs have no shifting, no banding, and no wobble. Regardless, I have no noticeable Z wobble. Now my bed is not very flat (stock Solidoodle) and I have a 2.5mm mirror clamped onto it in two places. It changed a total of 0.005" during the beginning of warm up and thats it. I also measured my all-metal Solidoodle 3 bed for changes in Z height during 20 minutes of heating from cold. As in, if I warmed up my bed for 6 minutes each print, the first layer was spot on with the Z tab setting not being changed. I will say this though, once the bed had been soaked (by this I mean the heater reaches setpoint and then sits there for 5 minutes more since the glass on top is not directly measured for heating and needs additional time to equalize) then the Z height of this setup was extremely repeatable. My bed heater is well insulated, but it did not matter, still too much heat. By doing so, my Z height calibration was quite different when leveling cold vs leveling with the bed warmed up. It was not terribly stable so I added a polycarbonate piece to make it more planar and stable. My self-build I had use C channel to support the bedplate. Now, from my personal experience with my self-build, you are absolutely correct that heat expansion during bed warm up changes the Z height to some degree. It would be nice if you could tell us which you have, makes all the difference. I have no idea if they were only shipping aluminum Z table bracket at this time or if they still shipped some ABS Z tables. I will put in some experience on this: First thing to know is you have an SD3 with Sang board. (shameless plug for my other thread).please help me figure out how to autotune my bed? I think a good test of this would be to print a square or pyramidal shape of significant size without small perimeter slow-down and see if the banding gradually reduces distance between the bands up the shape since layers would be printed at a faster rate but the bed temperature fluctuations would most likely occur at the same regular time intervals. This would also explain why my z-banding is unusually regular after I made my own anti-backlash parts (I'll post more details of these parts later if anyone is interested).ġ - tune the bed to be as regular in temperature as possible (what I was trying to do and still can't figure out - see my other thread)Ģ - use a bed with a very low thermal expansion coefficientģ - dynamically offset in host software based on current bed temperature - only if 1 and 2 can't be achieved It took me a minute to realize that the picture sequence is an extruder reflecting off of a printing bed. It shows that some Z-banding issues can be caused by the slight expansion of the bed going through heating cycles. I was looking around for help on my bed autotuning problems ( ) and found this thread ( … -t129.html) very interesting.
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